Last week was something special. One of the best, if not the best, climbing trip I’ve ever been on. Not because of the final ticklist, but of how my approach to climbing shifted as a result. Bishop, a desert an hour south of Yosemite, is home to some of the best climbing in the world. Climbers from all over flock there every winter to smile their way up their next best send, like children in a jungle-gym. The sends don’t come that easy though. It’s a grueling process: find the climb, endure the possible poor conditions, dial in the moves, and maintain motivation for the send. At the end of the day, when there’s nothing left but you and the rock, you have no choice but to get the job done. And my dear friends, that’s just what we did.
Projecting Time: 1 week in the desert, a few hours for blog post. I forgot to keep track.
Full Tick List
Here’s a quick breakdown of all my sends from the week bucketed by grade and ordered by how much I enjoyed the climb. A video for each climb is available too!
- Aquatic Hitchhiker: Located beside Beef Cake (V10) and comprised of 7/8 punch moves. First of the grade! Some say it’s soft and the book just downgraded it, but I don’t care. This was one of the hardest lines I’ve ever done and the people of youtube say its a 10-, so I’m taking the ten.
- Nothing lmao
- Pow Pow: A Sad Boulders Classic! The first move – a long span to a slopey left crip – took me forever to dial, but once I figured that out, the rest of the climb came to. I opted for the flexible, cut feet to the place the lower left heel beta instead of jumping to the large left edge like some of my friends. Overall, super fun climb that everyone should check out!
- Hamtaro: First move was the hardest because of the stupid sharp left hand pockets. It’s literally a 3/4 finger stack and an index finger pocket then big move to a good right hand. Keep the tension and do some large moves off of small right hand slots and you’re at the top. Solid line.
- High Plains Drifter: Ultra Mega Buttermilks CLASSIC! Wow, this climb was an absolute joy. Thankfully, the crux is on the bottom of the boulder, so you don’t have to worry about falling as you hike 30ft up the jugs to a gorgeous view atop the bloc. Flowy movement all the way through, in particular the infamous “drifter” move, persistent mental test, and overall, a breathtaking pleasure. One of my favorite lines I’ve done.
- Not Another Brit in Bishop: Super fun and very much my style. Large moves to good crimps/side-pulls and flowy heel hook compression. Definitely not a V7 though, closer to V5.
- Go Granny Ho: Located on the Grandmapeabody boulder with the same start as Go Granny Go. This one goes up to a sharp 2 finger crimp from which you figure out your feet to step into solid left crimps. Big move out right and traverse right to the jugs.
- Get Carter: This one is pretty much a two move wonder. The first move – dirty left drop knee – was by far the hardest to learn, but after that, the rest of the climb fell in less that a few goes.
- Every Color You Are: Another mega classic! Fun, sustained kind of power endurance climb overlooking the Happy Boulders valley. There are a million different betas for this one, so go ahead and go try it for yourself! No need for me to break it down.
- Clapper: Cool V6 with a rewarding view at the top. Not much to say about this climb.
- Strength in Numbers: Don’t think this is V5. It’s really hard especially from the sit start. The crux for me is at the very top (~18 ft?) where you have to match the rail where your left hand is on a two finger crimp and your feet are really far beneath you. Really cool movement though, was a lot of fun.
- Go Granny Go: This is the V5 line of Go Granny Ho that traverses right either to juggy arete or some crimps further right. I went with the fun gaston beta.
- Molly: This climb kind of blows because it’s my anti-style but I learned a thing or two from it. The crux is moving from this good side-pull to a decent crimp before the lip. You have to really understand the body positioning to do the move.
To see the full album of send videos, click HERE! Molly/Clapper not included!
COMING SOON …
This trip would not have been possible without the support from my friends.
- Alex Huang: This guy is insane. BIG shoutout to his normatec. I might have to go buy one now. I wish you a swift MCL recovery. Fuck the Acid Wash sit start.
- Sabrina Lui: Sugoi rawdesu. Thank you for inviting me on this trip. SO EARLY! I hope your lumbricle recovers swiftly.
- Tommy Vo: Tommy, you’re strong as holy hell. My climbing technique teacher and the goat of subtle jokes. Deja vu vu.
- Vyom Shah: Congrats on your first V10 too! Standing Kill Order!! You savage. I hope your skin grows back.
- Sam Doulton: Always a pleasure climbing and talking with you, my friend. Those golden beets you roasted were the key. Have fun in England m8.
- Eric Suen: Hot pot overload. Magnetic North crusher. You got good taste and massive balls. I love it.