For this edition of the Weekend Warrior Series, we have something that follows the original W.W creed – a climbing project! First started at the end of July, I projected and sent a mega-classic at Stinson Beach called Little Wing (V9). I’m not sure what the best format to describe this climb is so you guys will have to settle for my internal monologue.
Projecting Time: 10 hours total on the crag, 2 hour for blog post.
Little Wing (V9)
Doing this boulder was a bit a weird because I didn’t know whether some holds were on or not, so I just went with the superset of holds I saw in beta videos. It’s probably much softer if you’re a longer climber too.
August 08, 2020
6:15pm PST. Sun’s still bearing down on this warm Saturday evening. Skin’s worn down, body fatigued, and you have one maybe two send go’s left.
Sit down on the crash pads, shake out, relax, and check to see if Jenna’s recording.
Bottom section is a walk in the park. two moves off of jugs and a good heel.
Slap up to the 7 start. Make sure to find the semi-textured part of this flat sidepull.
Core up and commit to the positive, 3/4 pad sidepull crimp. Readjust right hand for better compression. Gonna need it.
Crux time. Get the left heel in solid and open the hips. The closer to the wall the better. This move to the slopey left edge is all body position.
Latch the left hand on the corner of the hold. The heat isn’t helping, so have to move fast. Sink into the shoulder, move right up to the small crimper and squeeze everything.
Time for body tension. Step through with the left, pull in close to the wall and find the mega right heel.
Shit, calf’s cramping but the climb is almost done. Right hand up quick and smack to the juggy sloper.
Calm down now, the rest goes. Left hand out to decent crimp. Right hand in to slopey crimp.
Swing around to high left foot and lock off hard.
Don’t blow it now. Scramble to find the left crimp. Some people are screaming. Seriously, don’t blow it.
Left hand secured. Mantle up on right. Throw up the knee scum. Match right hand.
Stand up victorious. You’re a V9 climber now.
What a sick climb.
Feel free to check out the full climb here.
- Jeffrey Lei and Jennifer Ann Campbell for support during my sending sesh
- Rebbeca Lee/Claire Casey/Betsy Fu/Gary Chao and co. for supporting me during my first sesh
- Sean Morris and Derrek Chu for the beta videos. Always an inspiration
- Kami for being the cutest crag dog around.
Cover Photo: waves calmly passing by